This is part of the series of serious terroir studies of burgundy. The whole idea is really to appreciate the promises each famed Vosne 1er cru communes brings. This is also to take a break from the more easily conceivable concept of grand cru comparison. Of course, it would be very special to muse over Richebourg, La Romanee, St. Vivant, La Tache, etc, but I believe Vosne-Romanee as a villages contain many gems even at the next level. There should also be some distinctiveness between each of them. Famed vineyards such as Cros Parantoux, Brulees, Reignots, Malconsorts, Gaudichots, Suchots... are all respected names. In the hands of good producers, they should be special and show individuality and class.
Of course we cannot provide each example from one single producer, but we should certainly try taste them within a single vintage -- if possible. Again, while this is supposed to be academic, my personal wish is that none of us breaks our backs and/or banks just to compile the lineup. The key is, I suggest, to stick to 1998. As we all know this vintage is more or less drinking now (exceptions of course apply), is logistically possible to obtain and feature, and particularly for Vosne, is a tricky vintage -- according to Tanzer, many Vosne wines (including those from Flagey-Echezeaux) of this year suffer from dry tannins. So my theory is that in the hands of the better producers, the wines should not display these flaws. A true test, if you may...
To rehash what I've already stated above, let's try to amass these:
VR Les Suchots (e.g., Arnoux's, Cacheux's, Grivot's, Girardin's...)
VR Les Gaudichots (e.g., Forey's, Potel's...)
VR Les Petit Monts (e.g., Drouhin's, Forey's...)
VR Cros Parantoux (e.g., Rouget's, Meo-Camuzet's, Jayer's...)
VR Les Brulees (e.g., Meo-Camuzet's, Leroy's, Grivot's, Engel's...)
VR Aux Reignots (e.g., Bouchard's, Arnoux's...)
VR Malconsorts (e.g., Cathiard's, Girardin's, Noellat's...)
VR Les Chaumes (e.g., Grivot's, Arnoux's, Rion's...)
The tasting doesn't have to be big -- a few good bottles shd be good enough -- and they don't have to squarely fall into those I had suggested. I am sure there are many other worthy Vosne 1ers I have missed out. Also, I expect the attending group would be smallish -- much like the recent time -- but it should be good enough. The key is interest and passion and observance. In the absence of 1998 version of the wines, I'd suggest vintage 1995 or 2000 counterparts.
ps: much as I suggest these, I'm quite ashamed I don't have any of these -- at least not in the vintage(s) suggested...
Of course we cannot provide each example from one single producer, but we should certainly try taste them within a single vintage -- if possible. Again, while this is supposed to be academic, my personal wish is that none of us breaks our backs and/or banks just to compile the lineup. The key is, I suggest, to stick to 1998. As we all know this vintage is more or less drinking now (exceptions of course apply), is logistically possible to obtain and feature, and particularly for Vosne, is a tricky vintage -- according to Tanzer, many Vosne wines (including those from Flagey-Echezeaux) of this year suffer from dry tannins. So my theory is that in the hands of the better producers, the wines should not display these flaws. A true test, if you may...
To rehash what I've already stated above, let's try to amass these:
VR Les Suchots (e.g., Arnoux's, Cacheux's, Grivot's, Girardin's...)
VR Les Gaudichots (e.g., Forey's, Potel's...)
VR Les Petit Monts (e.g., Drouhin's, Forey's...)
VR Cros Parantoux (e.g., Rouget's, Meo-Camuzet's, Jayer's...)
VR Les Brulees (e.g., Meo-Camuzet's, Leroy's, Grivot's, Engel's...)
VR Aux Reignots (e.g., Bouchard's, Arnoux's...)
VR Malconsorts (e.g., Cathiard's, Girardin's, Noellat's...)
VR Les Chaumes (e.g., Grivot's, Arnoux's, Rion's...)
The tasting doesn't have to be big -- a few good bottles shd be good enough -- and they don't have to squarely fall into those I had suggested. I am sure there are many other worthy Vosne 1ers I have missed out. Also, I expect the attending group would be smallish -- much like the recent time -- but it should be good enough. The key is interest and passion and observance. In the absence of 1998 version of the wines, I'd suggest vintage 1995 or 2000 counterparts.
ps: much as I suggest these, I'm quite ashamed I don't have any of these -- at least not in the vintage(s) suggested...
4 comments:
Dude, this is gonna be great! For now, looks like Rouget Parantoux 98 is the only one I have in stock in Indo.
Although sticking with one single vintage might be best to objectively judge through the whole tasting and have a better understanding of each vineyard, my feeling is that it might be a little hard in terms of sourcing. What do you guys think?
Henry, I think you might as well post the lineup of Grand Cru Gevrey 01s that we already compiled so that we can see what else we still need to look for. Thanks.
Very much looking forward to it. Have you seen Ming San's email reply yet? Too bad there aren't 1998 there, but I tend to agree with Andy that in case we're short, the 1997 could be another option to mix in. I really look forward to Meo-Camuzet's Brulees if Andy could get it. I'm beginning to think this domaine is quite special. And originally the Brulees was priced higher than its Parantoux. Spooky eh?
Arif was suggested to includes the Master-Jayer Vosne in the tasting? that would make the Vosne dinner be very expansive! Also, just relaize that, there is very little 1998 Vosne available in the market. Ming san can provide the following Vosne
1995 - Brulees Meo, Chaumes Meo, Suchots Arnoux
1996 - Suchots Arnoux
1997 - Genevrieres Leroy
1999 - Brulees Engel, Gaudichots Potel (see Clive Coates on this one)
Why not we instead host a blind tasting of Vonse 1er cru with various vintages? This way, we could both access the producer and vintages? what do your guys think?
The multi vintage thing isn't a bad idea. The good thing is, we won't have a supply/logistics issue. The bad thing is, we have three variables to contend with: producer, vintage, vineyard site... I suppose it all depends on how seriously we want to do this. If this were to be an 'impromptu' thing, then not an issue. If it's a planned study thing, sticking to a single vintage is preferred. I'm game either way.
Arif, what is your opinion?
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