It's always a privilege to taste with the Chevaliers. This is a grand dinner, formal and well organized. The whole atmosphere was fun-filled and full of camarederie. Lots of singing, generous food and good wine. A very merry bunch indeed!
As far as the wines go, there were quite a number of less than stellar appearances, but the whole experience was very educational nonetheless. I also question the fact that in such a dinner where almost a whole case of wines are presented each round, whether the luck factor of having a less-than-pristine bottle is the main factor for the lesser experience. It might well have been...
We started with two whites, both Chassagne 1er crus. The 2001 Bachelet-Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot has a deep golden hue to it. Ripe nose with figs and pears. On the palate it's straightforward and finishes with rather honeyed taste and texture. Too advanced for its age in my opinion. The 1999 Vincent Girardin Chassagne-Montrachet la Romanee has a distinctly flinty nose. Nicely structured, enters sweet and light at its feet. Over time, the acidity carries the finish nicely long and focussed. Good. Both wines work quite nicely with the Guinea fowl and truffle dish, particularly the Girardin as it had more cut and length.
The next course of Oeufs Meurette (which was very tasty and heartily creamy) was paired with Bachelet-Ramonet Batard-Montrachet 1985, a wine which -- at least per what I had -- sounded a lot more promising that it did deliver. Rather tired and cheesy nose (too young to be cheesy?!) with a plain and nondescript palate. Very little fruits left, although on the nose it still had that honeyed hint, just a hint, typical of a more mature white burgundy. Disappointing, coming from such a famed grand cru and vintage.
(A fourth unofficial white was added later -- 1999 Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet les Truffieres. This wine has plenty of volume and punch in the mouth. Ripe, forward yet balanced. From a technical standpoint, this was actually the best wine, although I did enjoy the la Romanee's penetrating finish more...)
The veal-cheek with Sarawk pepper and sweet potato mash dish (the veal was overdone and too tough) was paired with a duo of 1981 Lamarche Clos de Vougeot and 1985 Raphet Charmes-Chambertin. The Clos Vougeot was rather stinky and disturbed, giving off a hefty stale meat nuance in the nose at first. With some aeration, the wine turned sweeter and the frame nicely held its own for the next half-hour or so. By the end of the dinner, the wine was astringent and green. A sign of the weaker vintage if not anything else. Quite well made... The Charmes was immediately cleaner and more lush on the nose. Rather plush and brightly coloured when compared to the preceding wine too. Very ripe dark cherries I could find here, but the structure somewhat just did not highlight the fruits. Finishes rather dusty and stalky.
At this juncture, I was almost jaded, hoping against hopes that the last two wines would somewhat save the night. Indeed, a nice turnaround! The cheese platter was served with two vintages of Clos des Lambrays: 1988 and 2002. The 1988 had such deep red hue so typical of hardcore vintages. Nicely perfumed with damp earth, sweet mushrooms, intense black fruits and a very nice pitch. This wine was very nicely balanced -- not showy, not hugely concentrated, with just an adequate intensity. What it lacked in sweetness and volume (in typical grand cru wines) it made up for in terms of elegance and penetrating structure (oh-so-important in aged wines!) This wine in fact survived the night so well it hardly changed a bit two hours later... The 2002 was in contrast very much more berry-scented. Very red fruited, with a ripe sappiness not uncharacteristic of the vintage. It comes across as quite modern too, with a fruit-forward simplicity -- which I personally think was very deceptive. The finish has a sleek yet discreet minerally lift and, despite the candied raspberries sweetness, is actually quite light on its feet. I sense an upside in this wine. It's just too simple at this point, and well, no, it did not displace the 1988 as my wine of the night...
Oh yes, before I forget, this was the night that I was inducted into the confrerie too along with five other distinguished members. The whole proceedings were fun and meaningful. And the wine of the induction ceremony? A certain vintage's Potel Romanee-St.-Vivant... Nice, but would be even better if we've had it in a glass!
19 December, 2005
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